Stingray leather is unusual among leathers. The pearled surface is made of calcified beads, closer to enamel than to hide, which is why it resists scratches and water far better than calf or lamb. That also means most of what you have read about leather care does not apply here.
What it does not need
No leather grease, no wax, no oil. Those are made to keep fibrous leather supple. Stingray has almost no fibre on the surface, so grease sits on top, dulls the shine and collects dust. It is the single most common mistake.
No leather conditioner from a shoe shop for the same reason.
What it does need
A dry cloth, now and then. Wipe along the grain. That is most of the care a cuff will ever need.
Lukewarm water for anything stubborn. Dampen a cloth, wring it out well, wipe, then dry immediately with a second cloth. Do not soak it and do not hold it under a running tap.
Dry storage. A drawer or the PAVO box. Not on a windowsill: long hours of direct sun will fade the dye over months, and that is not reversible.
The two weak points
The gold plating, not the leather. On our cuffs the leather is set with gold-plated 925 sterling silver. Plating is the part that wears. Perfume, hairspray and hand cream attack it, so put the cuff on last, after everything else. Take it off before showering and swimming.
Sharp edges. The pearled surface is hard, but a hard knock against a stone worktop can chip a single bead. It will not spread, but it will show.
If it gets wet anyway
Nothing dramatic happens. Pat it dry with a cloth and let it finish drying in the room, away from a radiator. Heat is the problem, not the water. Drying leather too fast is what makes it stiff.
What ages, and what does not
The grain does not change. The colour deepens very slightly over the years, and the raised beads pick up a shine where your sleeve rubs them. Both are worth having. A cuff worn for five years looks better than a new one, which is more than you can say for most materials.